This is a letter written on December 28th, 2010 from The Old Bridge Backpackers in Maun, Botswana.  The letter was intended for close friends and family.  On advice my my papa, and after lots of wonderful feedback from my fam, I decided to share with all. Enjoy!

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Update from the Delta
By Sarah Furey
December 28,2010

Dumela!
 
I’m writing from inside a green canvas army tent– equipped with a raised bed, bedside table and lamp!  The tent sits inside a cave of bamboo and green, leaved vines (the recent rains have turned the brown, dry, thirsty vegetation I’ve grown accustomed to into vibrant arrays of fruits, flowers and greenery!) I understand more and more the worship of rain in this culture.
 
I celebrated the days leading up to Christmas in Otse, a small village which is sheltered by mountains on all sides. The sun rises a little later and sets a little earlier because of the protective hills.  The village is home to Tutu, or Shabhalala or Rragwe Fikile is his latest acquired name because of the November 5th birth of his baby boy. Rragwe Fikile tells me stories of the hills including one in particular –Lentswe  la Baratani – the Hill of Lovers. Two young star-crossed lovers carrying a  forbidden love climbed the mountain and were never seen again. The story is popular in Otse and even Tutu has climbed every hill – except Lentswe  la Baratani.
 
For Christmas day I traveled about 60kms from Gaborone to Moshupa, Phenyo’s home villiage.  I was exhausted when we arrived and a few of the young boys set up a mattress under a tree for me to sleep in the shade – heaven!   Mmagwe Poster (Phenyo’s sister) prepared a feast with a slaughtered goat, cabbage salad, bogobe(traditional thick porriage from sorghum grains), beats and carrots. Luckily the people in the house avoided the Christmas cooking heat because all of the cooking took place outside in three legged pots over open fire. Noticing I don’t have cell signal in Moshupa I asked Phenyo if we could hit the road in the late afternoon. I had to be sure to chat with a few special loved ones back home on Christmas day.  Even leaving in the late afternoon the African sun can really de-habilitate especially registering at 40 degrees Celsius!
 
Boxing day was perfect for resting and relaxing before hitting the road for Maun – the gateway to the Okavango Delta.  We took the bus (only 150Pula about 25$CND).  In Canada the buses have two rows of two seats on either side, here there are two rows, one side with 2 seats one side with 3 seats – wowzerrr it’s a tight squeeze.  Plus, after all the seats were taken the bus driver allowed passengers to ride standing.  This bus was jammed and our three seater included myself, Phenyo (a fit man, but still quite large) and a woman carrying a small baby.  The middle was tight.  The trip took 12 hours with most stops lasting less than 5 minutes.  About eight hours into the trip the bus stops, it’s the Botswana Police.  All passengers were required to exit the bus with their baggage and follow through a check-point.  The bus driver was fined for too many passages but still allowed to continue on.  At least at this point I have the opportunity to grad a quick pee in the bush!
 
After the long journey we arrive at Buddah’s house for some much appreciated hospitality.  Buddah’s place is much how you would imagine the Tibetan Buddah’s living arrangement.  A small round Thatched house, trees and shrubs around the outside, a brick fired oven, a small pond with fountain water and most importantly a genuine sense of peace, “Sarah– help yourself, feel at home”.  It didn’t take long for me to relax into the environment, scout out the bar and help myself to a Castle Light.  Buddah and his wife Patience, their daughter, Bini, and visiting family McGyver and Cheryl were extremely hospitable.  They even offered us a Botswana delicacy – ox tail.  I was nervous about tasting the new treat, but Patience assured me it’s the best part of the animal and she’s not far off.  My first taste of ox tail was delicious!  Thanks Buddah.
 
Our accommodation is at The Old Bridge Backpackers on the edge of the Thamalakane River, which is access to the Okavango Delta – my destination of choice this holiday season.  The river accesses Botswana via Namibia and it will be the entry point for our Mokoro boat trip.  The Mokoro is a hollowed our canoe which you can probably picture from tourism images of peaceful African boat tours.  The guide, or poler will push the boat with a long pole, guiding us into the delta.  We are spending three days and two nights exploring the water and land and also camping on the river bank.  I hope to catch a glance of some zebras as well as any of the big five (elephant, leopard, buffalo, rhino, lion).
 
It the budget permits, I hope to do a small plane ride over the delta.  Oh, how I would love to have the view from above!
 
I am very grateful and excited to spend my last few days of 2010 inside the Okavango Delta.  Last year I was meditating at Karma Choling in Barnet, Vermont and this year is another sort of meditation.  I am sad to be far from my family and friends but the distance helps me to appreciate and understand the magnitude of the love I have for these people.
 
Reflecting on 2010, it has been an absolutely amazing year. A few challenges but every incident had brought me strength and wisdom. Again, I cannot express the gratitude I’ve grown to understand.